Won’t Go? Steps to Take for Puppy Leash Training

You’ve just welcomed your new puppy into your home, and the excitement of that first walk fills you with joy. You’ve envisioned this special moment for so long. As you gently fasten the leash and open the door, your heart swells with anticipation. But then, you notice your puppy just won’t budge.

You gently tug on the leash, thinking she just needs a little encouragement to get started. But instead of following your lead, she stands her ground, her little legs firmly planted. It’s puzzling, isn’t it?

Later on, you try again and manage to get her a whole 10 feet down the walkway before she puts on the brakes. You pick her up, thinking a little help might do the trick. But when you set her down, she eagerly heads right back to the house, straining against the leash with determination.

If you’re feeling confused and perhaps a little let down, know that you’re not alone. Many new dog owners share this experience and wonder why their furry companions don’t share the enthusiasm for walks. It’s important to remember that your puppy is still adjusting to her new surroundings, and it may take time for her to feel comfortable and confident enough to explore outside. Patience and understanding will go a long way as she learns to embrace new adventures with you. And here are some puppy leash training tips to get her moving without force or fear.

SENSIBLE SELF-PRESERVATION

It's completely understandable for a puppy to feel hesitant about going out on a leash with her new owner. While you might be surprised by this reaction, consider it from the puppy's viewpoint:

• During her first week, your new puppy finds herself in an entirely unfamiliar setting, away from the canine family she has always known.   

• Previously, she experienced new things surrounded by her littermates, but now she has to figure out this leash-and-walk situation all by herself.

• This might be the first time she’s ever worn a collar – a peculiar object snug against her neck.

• This could also be her first experience with a leash attached to that collar, which might create a feeling of pressure that makes her feel confined. (Just because we humans are accustomed to seeing dogs on leashes doesn't mean it's a natural experience for them!)

• It's likely that her previous outdoor experiences have only been in the same yard every time. As you open the door, she's bombarded with entirely new smells, sounds, and sights. Maybe she’s never navigated steps before, or heard a car, or seen a child riding a bike. She requires time to process all of this at her own pace.   

• Even though you are kind, remember that you are still relatively unfamiliar to your puppy, so your presence might not be very comforting yet.

Therefore, it's not surprising when a new puppy dislikes her first walk. In fact, it’s more unexpected when she enjoys it, which likely indicates she had a good breeder who took the time to introduce her to things in a positive way! But don’t worry. Follow these steps and soon you’ll be happily walking together.

SLOW DOWN WHEN LEASH TRAINING YOUR DOG

The approach is straightforward: Rely on your own empathy as a compass, and divide this daunting experience into smaller, manageable parts:

• Begin the first day by placing a light collar on the puppy (avoid heavy leather collars with cumbersome buckles). Engage the puppy with enjoyable toys and playtime to prevent her from fixating on how uncomfortable, unusual, or distracting the collar may feel. It could take minutes, hours, or even days for her to adjust.

• To foster positive associations with the collar, reward the puppy with special treats (like turkey or cheese) each time you put it on her.

• Once she is comfortable wearing the collar, introduce a lightweight kitty leash that she can drag around indoors for five-minute intervals. (Again, offer her a treat every time.) The puppy might attempt to nibble on the leash. Maintain some playful distractions to help lessen that tendency. The objective is to observe the pup’s body language to ensure she isn’t distressed by the leash’s sensation. As the puppy becomes calmer with the leash, start occasionally holding the end of it while being cautious to apply minimal pressure on her neck. Is it going well? If so, try all of this outside in the yard.

• While practicing these techniques to help the puppy become familiar with the collar and leash, also introduce gradual exposure to new outdoor sights and sounds. Sit together on your front steps, watching the world pass by, and enjoy small pieces of hot dog when trucks, dogs, or skateboarding children go by.

Reaching the milestone of a pup that is relaxed while walking around the yard with you holding the leash might take just three minutes or as long as three days. Take the time you need! And those enjoyable distractions you've implemented to shift the puppy’s focus from the collar and leash?! Keep them handy! Maintain the fun voice, the bent knees and eye contact, the playful movements, the clapping, the sing-song tone, the treats, and your relaxed demeanor as you transition this leash training to broader contexts! However, if you reside in a city where leashed walks for bathroom breaks are the only option, you’ll need to expedite the process, unless you opt for pee pads. Nonetheless, an empathetic perspective will allow you to identify small ways to make this experience more pleasant.

START WITH A COLLAR WHEN LEASH TRAINING; USE A HARNESS LATER

I often emphasize collars over harnesses because I've found that introducing a harness right away can sometimes overwhelm pets. It can lead to that instinctive “Oh my gosh, what is this thing you're putting on me?” reaction. Taking a gradual approach with a collar first may help them feel more comfortable and ease into wearing additional gear later on. For me, a martingale (limited-slip) collar is ideal for the first few weeks of walking: easy to put on, light to wear, and totally secure. (I would suggest a loop leash for easy on and off option or a puppy Marringale collar and standard 4’ nylon leash.

ENLIST A DOGGY ESCORT

The quickest method to encourage a puppy to walk forward with enthusiasm is to pair her with a well-behaved, experienced dog. It's quite amusing to see a puppy that was completely hesitant to move suddenly take off joyfully when another dog passes by!

If possible, find a neighbor who has a lovely, calm adult dog and arrange for three walks over a span of three days. This should be enough to show your puppy that being outside is perfectly okay. Here are two things to keep in mind.

Make sure to avoid using a dog that tends to bark during walks! The puppy will likely mirror the emotions of the larger dog, which is why it's important to choose a calm, easy-going companion who can handle everything you encounter together.

It's common for the puppy to attempt to jump on the larger dog, tug on their leash, and generally get in their way. This behavior is normal! Just maintain some distance between the dogs and use treats along with your engaging voice and energy to redirect the puppy's focus back to you periodically.

ZIG-ZAGS, WIGGLES, SNIFFING OKAY!

The main objective during the initial weeks of walking is to expose the puppy to the outside world and help her feel positive about it. Once those early four sponge-like months of a puppy’s life are gone, you can't get them back, and leash walks are essential to maximize that opportunity. (There simply isn’t enough new information for them to absorb at home.)

We aim to firmly instill the understanding that new experiences are perfectly fine—before biology begins to signal to the puppy that anything unfamiliar could be a danger. The only way to achieve this is by introducing the puppy, in a controlled manner and always respecting her comfort level, to various sights, smells, sounds, and situations.

Since the primary focus is on ensuring the puppy feels happy, this isn’t the time to work on perfecting a heel. Instead, it’s an opportunity to bring along treats and show the puppy that walks, new experiences, and you are often associated with food. This is also a time to allow her to sniff to her heart’s content, as every “sniffari” greatly enhances her understanding of the world, which in turn boosts her confidence.

Don’t become disheartened if your walks seem brief; to the puppy who has just used her nose to “meet” 15 dogs, three children, and an elderly person, they are significant! There will be plenty of time to teach your dog a different style of walking, where you both move ahead quickly together. For now, though, as your new puppy discovers the world around her, walks characterized by zig-zags, wiggling, and sniffing are just right.

👉And remeber, You Should take Your Pup for Walks Before the Last Puppy 'Shot'

You may be wondering, “What if we can’t walk our puppy off our property until she gets her parvo/distemper and Rabies shots at 4 months?” It’s time to take a proactive approach. I strongly encourage you, in collaboration with your veterinarian, to look into the latest guidance on puppy behavioral health. It is crucial for your puppy’s well-being to experience the outside world. By making informed decisions now, you’ll set the stage for thrilling adventures in the future! Rest assured, today’s veterinary experts clearly state that keeping puppies isolated until they are five months or older is no longer the recommended practice.

From the American Veterinary Medical Association’s “Literature Review on the Welfare Implications of Socialization of Puppies”:

By 8 to 9 weeks of age, most dogs are sufficiently neurologically developed that they are ready to start exploring unfamiliar social and physical environments. Data show that if they are prohibited from doing so until after 14 weeks of age they lose such flexibility and may be forever fearful [our emphasis] in these situations. Such dogs may function well within extremely restricted social situations but will be fearful and reactive among unfamiliar people, pets or in environments outside of the house.

From the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviorists’ (ASVAB) “Position Statement on Puppy Socialization”:

The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli, and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over-stimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, ASVAB believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.

Insufficient or improper socialization during this crucial period can heighten the likelihood of behavioral issues later in life. While puppies’ immune systems are still maturing in these early stages, the combination of maternal immunity, initial vaccinations, and proper care makes the risk of infection relatively low when compared to the potential consequences of behavioral issues. There is a strong chance that your puppy will be very challenging to manage if you neglect to expose her to various experiences during her first few months. If your puppy has already had one or two vaccinations, and you are knowledgeable and cautious about where you take her—steering clear of unfamiliar dogs and crowded locations—then the risk of her contracting parvo or distemper while you focus on this essential socialization is quite low.